Terradets by Garry Phillips
 


By Gary Phillips.

Lying 70km north of Lleida in one of Spains oldest climbing areas, the Terradets Valley a new single pitch sport climbing sector has been developed.

Sector Bruixes is relatively small but compact crag with routes ranging from 6c and 8c and with more than half of these being above 7c. The style of climbing tends to be big pulls on good holds with 90% of these moves on tufas and pockets.

The crag.The best warm up routes are found down the left hand side of the crag, these being l'Ansia 7a+ and Pasta sin Aqua 7a+. Both are brilliant and show the quality and style of the routes to come.
After these step right and get on Jam Session 7b and Derribos Arias 7b+.
Derribos Arias is the best 7b+ there. After a powerful and pumpy start prepare your self for a tricky sequence on crimpy holds at mid height, if you read the sequence right and manage to pull through then head for the twin tufas and the victory jugs.
Other good ones to throw your self at down the left hand side of the crag Tarambana 7b+/c, Una bonita session de mete y saca 7c/7c+ and Primera Linea 8a. The later is a megga classic and good one to try and onsight if you are fit!

Moving up hill and taking the best of the bunch get on the 35m Orient 7c+, Occident 7c, Xarop de basto 7c+ and the powerful Red Bulls 7c+. Red Bulls takes the crazy looking single tufa with wild and exciting moves from start to finish.

At the extremeright end of the crag is the home to the hardest routes at Bruixes. If you are up to it check out Anarquista 8a+ again the route provides powerful athletic climbing up the right hand side of the cave. The crux is getting past the 4th bolt where you slap from a L.H. pinch into a R.H. undercut and then on again to a another L.H. pinch, from here get a rest in the tufas and then blast up the tiring head wall on good, but spaced holds.

Finally if you have time then Definicion d'Accion 8c and the easier left hand varient at 8b+ offer good up side down climbing as well.

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