Bouldering
In Slovenia.
Bouldering
in Slovenia isn't a big thing yet, with World class sport climbing
venues such as Misja Pec and Osp this is hardly surprising. There
is the exception of a small amount of hardcore boulderers who
are constantly searching out new quality untouched areas, other
than that everybody else seems to be engrossed in either Alpine
epics or the excellent looking stamina fests.
This suited us down to the ground the fact that there are still
quality projects to be completed in some very beautiful settings
makes for an excellent holiday spot and you virtually always have
the boulders to yourself. There are five main bouldering areas
in total, all spread out around Slovenia but not to worry we managed
to drive from the North to the South in a day. Trenta is the biggest
of all the venues and is best visited in summer, due to its mountainous
location. Limestone boulders with overhanging faces, roofs and
slabs sit in a beautiful alpine valley by the river Soca. Due
to the rock being limestone and not having much mileage some of
the problems can be very sharp although this doesn't stop them
being quality it just means staticness is key.
TRENTA.
ACCESS:
After crossing moutain pass (if you started from »Kranjska Gora«)
you just drive alongside river Soca and after sign Trenta drive
(6,7km) untill huge road gallery »Berebica«. Park your vehicle
there. Take small wooden footbridge and turn right and after 200m
you gonna reach sector X .
BEST TIME: From April to September.
WARNING: This is private land. Can be some problems sometimes.
Don't camp there, be quiet, don't take dogs because of the sheep.
Anyway there are many campsites and plenty of activities to do
between rest days because of very nice river Soca.
A-KHAMASUTRA
BOY.
1.
GANJA KMET 3a (sitting start).
2. ALELUJA BR 3a.
3. ALF 4a.
4. A1 6b+ (start from a left edge and undercut in the arete),
6c (sit).
5. KHAMASUTRA BOY 6c+ (sitting start, up to the face and by using
slopers on the arete).
B-STONED MONKEY.
1. STONED MONKEY 7a (sit).
2. Mr. TWISTER ???????
C-KILLER
LOJZE.
1.
CEPEC 6b (sit).
2. KILLER LOJZE 7a+ (start on left undercut and small edge on
the right), 7c+ (sit, start in problem 1, a little to the right
and then to the top).
3. SPITROASTER 6b+, 7a+ (without using big jug on the right),
7b+ (sit).
4. C.C. 4a.
5. POWER JUNKIE.

D-PANTHA-RHEI.
1. PANTHA-RHEI 7c (without using holds on the arete), 8a (start
with left hand on the side pull and right one on the little undercut,
than cross over with right hand to the left and up the face).
2. POJOCA TRAVICA 3c.
