|
Font. 8b+ - V14.
The
grade of Font. 8b+ (V14) is not just limited to one boulder problem
like its harder brother Font. 8c. In total there are twenty-six
problems of this grade scattered all around the globe and climbed
by many nationalities of climbers. The field isn't narrowed down
to a handful of climbers who travel the world ticking first ascents;
there are twenty-four people who have cranked problems at this grade.
'Radja'
was the first Font. 8b+ to be climbed in the World and it will probably
come as no surprise to hear that this was freed by the pioneering
Fred Nicole. This is the point where the super strong boulderer
Klem Loskott enters the scene; he is the only person to have repeated
'Radja'. Although Klem may have climbed the line using a different
sequence to Fred and has commented that his way may only be Font.
8b. It is not clear which sequence is the correct one so until more
ascents have been made we will leave 'Radja' in the 8b+ category.
As
far as Britain is concerned we have three problems of this grade,
the first one was added by the visiting German climber Thomas Willenberg.
He added a sit-down-start to the already classic Jason Myers problem
'Brad Pit' at Stanage Plantation. He also is the only person to
have repeated the problem using Jason's leaping method, hence the
grade of Font. 8b+. It is not clear, as of yet what grade this problem
would be if the more standard finish were added to the sit-down-start.
'Kaizen'
is another contribution to this grade, situated at the bouldering
venue of Woodwell, Lancashire; this John Gaskin's creation still
awaits a second ascent. John is no stranger to hard climbing having
made the third ascent of the bouldery Moon route 'Hubble' and also
having repeated some of the hardest problems that the forest of
Fontainebleau, France, has to offer. The only other person from
the UK to have climbed this grade is the super strong Scotsman Malcolm
Smith. Whilst visiting the Fred Nicole stomping ground of Cressiano,
Switzerland, he repeated an un-named Fred 8b+ in a relatively short
space of time. Whilst on the subject of Malcolm he has also been
very close to the ultimate test-piece 'Dreamtime', having already
linked it from standing he only has about another five moves to
add.
 
|