Tour De Force
 


Font. 8b+ - V14.

Click here to view larger image.The grade of Font. 8b+ (V14) is not just limited to one boulder problem like its harder brother Font. 8c. In total there are twenty-six problems of this grade scattered all around the globe and climbed by many nationalities of climbers. The field isn't narrowed down to a handful of climbers who travel the world ticking first ascents; there are twenty-four people who have cranked problems at this grade.
Click here to view larger image.'Radja' was the first Font. 8b+ to be climbed in the World and it will probably come as no surprise to hear that this was freed by the pioneering Fred Nicole. This is the point where the super strong boulderer Klem Loskott enters the scene; he is the only person to have repeated 'Radja'. Although Klem may have climbed the line using a different sequence to Fred and has commented that his way may only be Font. 8b. It is not clear which sequence is the correct one so until more ascents have been made we will leave 'Radja' in the 8b+ category.
Click here to view larger image.As far as Britain is concerned we have three problems of this grade, the first one was added by the visiting German climber Thomas Willenberg. He added a sit-down-start to the already classic Jason Myers problem 'Brad Pit' at Stanage Plantation. He also is the only person to have repeated the problem using Jason's leaping method, hence the grade of Font. 8b+. It is not clear, as of yet what grade this problem would be if the more standard finish were added to the sit-down-start.
Click here to view larger image.'Kaizen' is another contribution to this grade, situated at the bouldering venue of Woodwell, Lancashire; this John Gaskin's creation still awaits a second ascent. John is no stranger to hard climbing having made the third ascent of the bouldery Moon route 'Hubble' and also having repeated some of the hardest problems that the forest of Fontainebleau, France, has to offer. The only other person from the UK to have climbed this grade is the super strong Scotsman Malcolm Smith. Whilst visiting the Fred Nicole stomping ground of Cressiano, Switzerland, he repeated an un-named Fred 8b+ in a relatively short space of time. Whilst on the subject of Malcolm he has also been very close to the ultimate test-piece 'Dreamtime', having already linked it from standing he only has about another five moves to add.

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