If
steep and powerful bouldering is your thing then the Carinthian
region in Austria is just the place for you. This is one of Austria's
best kept secret venues, everything is steep they don't clean
slabs of because they take longer to clean than the overhanging
stuff and to boot there's the added bonus of everything been on
immaculate Granite.
I
first visited the region earlier this year and was shocked by
the quality and the amount of problems, due to a lot of the areas
being on private land no guide or maps have been produced for
the area. You'll just have to search and find the place yourself
but once you do it's well worth it, with some of the best scenery
I have ever seen and some world class problems also.
The
only down side to Maltatal is that there isn't much easy bouldering
in the area, on our first day the easiest warm up was Font. 6c+.
This is not surprising once you realise that this is the stomping
ground of Loskott and the Schwaiger brothers. Some of the locals
showed us round and some of the things that these Austrian 'powerhouses'
have succeeded on is truly shocking.
'Wrestling
with an Alligator' was the first sick Loskott creation we were
shown, situated on a hillside the boulder overhangs by about fifty
degrees. Needless to say the Font. 8b+ grade made us shy away
from putting our boots on, not only that but the edges on the
face would have been poor on a vertical wall never mind something
this steep. I thought that this problem was sick but when I was
shown the project that Klem Loskott had been trying I realised
that a whole new power generation was upon us.
'Bugeleisen'
blast's it's way up a forty-five degree overhanging wall on crimps
that all seem to face in the wrong direction. Whilst we were in
Maltatal Klem hadn't completed this project, but he recently did
at a grade of Font. 8b+.Check out the extremely impressive photo's
of Klem's ascent, oh and by the way if you were wondering this
latest addition to Malta still has the sit-down-start to be added
at a grade of around Font. 8c.