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By Sean James.
Wild
Iris is probably and wrongly known for just one route, Throwin the
Houlihan. A pocketed 5.14a (8b+) that was first climbed in 1991
by Paul Piana. At one stage this route was amongst the hardest in
America. As a consequence the area rose in popularity during the
mid 1990s and many new routes were put up. Many climbers particularly
from the power hungry British cellar scene, left Sheffield, visited
the area and dubbed it the "French Buoux". The rock is
white limestone, the routes are not long, the pockets are sharp
and most of the crags are south facing. All of this made the area
even more popular with climbers intent on straining their tendons
and getting strong. The type of climbing can definitely be considered
euro pocket pulling. If you like Buoux or Verdon type climbing but
prefer a Big Mac and Budweiser to a baguette and box of French supermarket
plonk, then Wild Iris is definitely the place for you.
"Former"
cowboy and Indian country, Wyoming is a vast, empty state in the
northern parts of the US. The whole state is hidden deep under snow
for most of the year and baking under the sun for the rest. Indeed
what strikes you most when you visit Wild Iris is the harsh extremes
of the environment, the isolated location, the quality and variety
of the landscape. It is a true "frontier" experience.
But luckily for you, someone has been there already with a large
bolt gun and robbed you of the chance of being a pioneer.
There are many
crags within this area of Wyoming and Wild Iris is a true sports
crags - no cracks or multi-pitch routes to be seen. Only small bulges
of white rock, covered in pockets. The majority of the routes are
in the 5.9 - 5.12a (F4 - F7a+) range, so the area is ideal for the
intermediate climber. The cliffs and routes are easy to find, the
walk in pleasant and not too long and the bolts and lower offs all
placed appropriately, unlike some of those at Buoux.

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