A Xmas trip to Monte Carlo By Sean James.

Whenever the south coast of France is mentioned as a climbing venue, the most common reaction is often a vigorous shaking of the head followed by mutterings of car break-ins. As a result the area has been consistently avoided by the majority of the British climbing scene for many years now - Buoux, Claret, Ceuse or Spain being the preferred option. Rumours in the past that the native population in Marseille can't walk past a car without smashing the window and taking something, have always been exaggerated. Today, parking for the majority of the climbing areas in the south of France is in well trafficked areas such as the university or small tourist villages. Car crime is no longer a valid excuse to avoid the climbing delights of the south and should be considered as safe as leaving your car at Stanage.

Another common misconception is that all of the climbing on the south coast is to be found in the rocky expanse of the Calanques, around Marseille. Mais Non! About 2 hours drive east (200km) along the coast is the 'quiet', 'unpretentious town of Monaco, in the Principality of Monte Carlo. The town thrives on tourists and welcomes vagrant climbers and their dollars with open arms. Monaco is only 20 minutes from Nice, where an airport serviced by every climbers friend, Stavros, and his fleet of orange planes can drop you off and provide you with a hire car. Within french climbing circles the crags around this area are considered a 'spot majeur'.

The main crag is known as 'La Turbie', after the nearby village and is therefore not difficult to find. Indeed, the crag can be spotted from most streets in Monaco. It is easy to identify climbers in Monaco:~ Climbers will generally be those in dirty duvets rather than fur coats. In addition the afore-mentioned duvet wearers will be wandering in the streets looking up at the crags rather than at the Ferraris, Porsches and beautiful people parading before them.

Probably the most impressive aspect of climbing at 'La Turbie' is the view. The main crags overlook the stunning Cote d'Azur and the entire town of Monaco. There is always something to look at during rests between routes; You can observe the high rollers entering and leaving the casino or take a peek at the royal palace. Monaco has its own heliport and at least every 5 minutes there is a helicopter buzzing in and out, ferrying the rich and famous to their tax free havens.

The main reason for visiting is of course the climbing, the weather, the food, the scenery.........

The atmosphere and style of climbing is very similar to that of Pen Trywn, both Upper and Lower. The rock is white limestone and the routes are generally on smallish, positive holds with distinct crux sections.

You are probably thinking that staying in an area like this, will push your Gold Card to the limit. However the area is so well developed for the tourist industry that all levels of accommodation are available.

If you like exploring new areas and can't face the prospect of Spain again and have been to every other crag in France, this area is definitely worth a visit, even if you fly into Nice and only spend a few days here on your way to somewhere else.