Last years World Cup series was over five events and it proved to be a very exciting year. The opening competition in the French alpine town of Chamonix in July was well attended. For a change, it was outside and unfortunately blighted by bad weather. The event was won by Italian Bernardino Lagni, familiar as the unknown who won the World Championship in Birmingham in 1999, followed by the new darling of French climbing Alexandre Chabot. ‘Old hand’ Yuji Hirayama and Ukrainian Maxim Petrenko shared third.

Stephanie Bodet triumphed in the women’s ahead of Martina Cufar (Slovenia) after a super-final between the two on a modified men’s final route and there was a tie for third spot between Liv Sansoz (France) and Muriel Sarkany (Belgium).

The British team supported by UK Sport. Berghaus and Beal didn’t start the year too well. Richard Bingham and Guy Dixon could only finish in 60^th and 63^rd places, but Rebecca Allen put in our best performance in 37^th place. Anne Arran was 45^th and Abigail May 48^th.

After a two-month summer break it was on to Lecco, Italy. The big news was the inclusion of Steve McClure in the British team and on his debut he finished a ‘strong’ 23^rd. Guy Dixon improved slightly in 59^th, Rebbeca Allen was 41^st and Abigail May 46^th. Again the top four women were dominant with Sansoz first, Sarkany in second and Cufar securing third spot ahead of Bodet.

Chabot was the victor in tight men’s battle pushing the legendary Francois Legrand into second position. Chabot, a mere spring chicken at 18, now led the overall standings. Hirayama finished third.

Courmayer, Italy was less predictable with the East European men gaining two shock but deserved podium places. A few big names missed out qualifying for the men’s final including Chabot and Lagni. The final was a power endurance route with good rests if you could find them. Evgueni Ovtchinnikov, the strong 29 year old Russian did and won ahead of Hiriyama and the Ukrainian Serik Kazbekov. Steve McClure could only manage 51^st place with Guy Dixon four places behind.

In the women’s final Katrin Sedlmayer from Germany finished fourth with a brilliant effort but again it was the usual names leading the way. Bodet finished third but had to sit and watch her two rivals Sarkany and Sansoz in a super-final, Sarkany the eventual winner. Rebecca Allen was 38^th and Abigail May 40^th.

The penultimate round in Nantes, France was a tense event with the overall standings very close. Liv Sansoz and Muriel Sarkany were on the same points and local favourite Alexandre Chabot just behind Yuji Hirayama. If Yuji won the title would be his.

The women’s event had an exciting climax and after four women topped out in the final once again a superfinal was needed. The route was reachy and tricky low down and Bodet, Sedlmayer and Sarkany all fell here with Sedlmayer just reaching higher. What about Sansoz? Well, with a superb, gutsy piece of climbing she fought past the others and all the way to the top via a big dyno and crimpy sequence. She deserved the standing ovation she received from a fanatical French crowd.

Hirayama and Chabot were close throughout the competition and neither gave an inch. Both topped out in the semi-final and final to force yet another super-final. Yuji quickly made it to half height and up to a roof where the difficulty increased. After an eternity and finding almost impossible resting positions in the roof he overcame the lip but he was soon off. It was enough to see off the challenge from Chabot who finished second. With this result, Yuji Hirayama was the winner of the overall title with a round left