By Andy Harris.

After 3 months of pocket pulling, beer swilling and cake chomping my tendons and intestines are politely suggesting I stop abusing them and turn my attentions elsewhere. What better than inform you (the climbing public), about Germanys most important climbing area, the northern Frankenjura. Over the past months I've been amassing a wealth of local knowledge at a rate only superceded by the number of visits to the local bakery.

The reason for this urge of putting pen to paper being principally that very few of my British comrades are aware of this stunning area. Is this because like the continentals thinking the UK is only for lunatics climbing on gritstone (thanks Hard Grit) we see the Frankenjura as dynoing on monos (thanks Action Directe). Or is it simply because most of us would rather go to Spain or France as we do every year and get really pumped? Just remember that the routes here average 10-18m, have no delicate slab top outs and all finish on a massive jug. In the Frankenjura you really can lay one on for the belay! Hopefully you will now see sense and check out what in my opinion is the best climbing area in Europe.

Situated just NE of Nurnberg lies the heavily forested landscape of the Frankische Schweiz or Frankenjura as it is more commonly known. This area is home to more than 400 limestone cliffs with a position and style to suit all climbers whatever the weather. Some crags are clustered together with 50 routes a piece whilst others might have a solitary route in the middle of a forest. Hitching here isn't an option due to the complexity of all the backroads and villages.

The Frankenjura is not just a haven for the lucky few who can pull on monos like jugs. If you climb up to grade 7 (French 6b) then there are hundreds of quality routes, although a few friends and wires on the old school crag may make progress between the bolts less sporting. Generally routes between grades 6 and 11 (French 6a to 9a) are well bolted with sturdy lower offs although the danger ethos of the early 80's is still apparent in some of the, hmmm, undergraded classics. (See grade comparison table).

Climbing in the Frankenjura is pockets!. Big pockets, small pockets, sinker two and one finger pockets, slopey pockets, shallow pockets etc etc etc with the odd crimp or sloper thrown in for good luck. Routes average 10-18m although there are a few 30 and 40m cliffs. Limestone is the only rock here, although the texture and style can vary from place to place. Unlike our own fair limestone a lot of the stuff here actually has friction. Something quite novel if you're used to climbing in the Peak or Yorkshire. The style of climbing here in the higher grades tends to be on the burly side, which goes half way to explaining the physiques of the locals. The other half being attributable to the cake and beer consumption in this region.